Cherchant Louise

Some wines you forget in a moment, but a few remain in your memory for ever. Such was the experience at Champagne Pommery in Reims.

We had already visited several great champagne houses during this trip but nothing prepared me for the total sensory experience here. Everything at Pommery is blue, starting with the portrait of the founder, Madame Louise Pommery, in the entrance hall.

We were met by Myriam Renard and one of her staff, who guided us through Pommery’s history and the 18 km of limestone tunnels connecting the galleries carved from 2000 year old Roman chalk pits. At the top was a collection of blue fencing masks. Why? To protect the 19^th century workers from exploding bottles in the days when bottle quality was much lower.

The galleries are full of spectacular 19^th century bas reliefs, and an exhibition of modern art – mostly blue again.

But the real story is about the wines, and we had the great privilege of being shown these by Thiérry Gasco, Vice-President and Cellar Master. His knowledge of every facet of his wines is encyclopaedic.

He guided us through the non-vintage cuvées, including a blanc de blancs that has been made only since 1998. It is a fresh, crisp wine with a rich palate and a long finish.

We then met the 2005 Vintage Pommery, made only with Pinot noir and Chardonnay because meunière is less suitable for aging.

But the pièce de resistance was Louise 2002. This is a champagne to die for. It’s arrival was announced by the ringing of a gong and the assistant donning white gloves. Made from 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot noir from very selected plots in the Grand cru vineyards, it is golden in colour, with a powerful aromatic nose of honey, peach and butter, reflected again in its long and mouth-filling palate.

It’s going to be hard to go back to drinking ordinary wines again.